We might be deep into Haute Couture Week, but menswear hasn’t taken its final bow just yet. Far from it, as today, Saint Laurent unveiled its Fall/Winter 2025-26 menswear collection. As they say, the best is often saved for last.

Anthony Vaccarello’s latest offering for the French house serves as an exploration of the duality that has defined Saint Laurent since its inception—a brand inherently destined to play with opposites, shaped by its founders: “a hedonistic aesthete hungry for new experiences and a literary genius steeped in tradition,” as the house describes them.

On the runway, Vaccarello’s hallmark refined and precise tailoring took an unexpected turn, embodying the tension between apparent contradictions. The collection became a dialogue between the soul of Yves Saint Laurent and the provocative essence of Robert Mapplethorpe—a meeting of classic dogma with seductive, rebellious, and menacing elegance.

Ambiguity once again reigned in Vaccarello’s creative vision, as Saint Laurent continued its journey toward merging the masculine and the feminine, dissolving lines that perhaps should never have existed. Man and woman, two halves of a single entity, come together in a defiance of duality.

For Saint Laurent’s Fall/Winter 2025-26 menswear, “oversized coats adorned with feather details and impeccably tailored double-breasted jackets take on a new character when paired boldly with thigh-high leather wader boots,” a prime example of the spark driving Vaccarello to unify disparate paths.

In this collection, the interplay of the light and the rigid, the tight and the voluminous, creates a symphony of contrasts. Minimalism and opulence collide, as Vaccarello extracts echoes of the past to craft a future already unfolding in the present.

This is Saint Laurent—provocative, boundary-pushing, and unapologetically elegant.