FENDI: THE AMBIVALENCE OF CONNECTION BY MARIA GRAZIA CHIURI AND JO ANN CALLIS
The Walk
Maria Grazia Chiuri’s first Fall/Winter 2026-2027 collection for FENDI is brought to life through the evocative lens of photographer Jo Ann Callis, delivering a campaign that deeply explores the ambivalence of human connection. The imagery captures the inherent tension between our profound longing to bond with others and the instinctual drive to protect our own vulnerability. It serves as a visual meditation on the constant negotiation of what we are willing to give versus what we need, acknowledging that while we may never fully access another person's inner life, the human pursuit of connection remains an endless, driving force. Callis initiated her creative process with a sketchbook, mapping out the precise gestures that would define the interplay between her subjects, frequently portraying the complex dynamic between a man and a woman.
This focus on physical expression perfectly mirrors Chiuri’s vision for the maison, which is deeply rooted in the concept of a shared wardrobe. By reflecting womenswear and menswear against one another, the collection highlights both commonalities and dualities, suggesting that uniformity can paradoxically intensify expressions of masculinity and femininity. Clothed in menswear, femininity often finds a heightened, striking presence, with every movement acting as a window into a rich inner world where masculine and feminine dimensions continuously negotiate. Drawing profound inspiration from the choreography of Pina Bausch, the campaign explores this emotional tension through physical proximity. Conceived as a cinematic narrative, each photograph exists as a suspended moment within a larger sequence, where a subtle yet palpable emotional and physical distance persists even when subjects occupy the exact same space.
Rome itself emerges as an essential character in this visual dialogue, its layered history echoing through classic architecture, rich interiors, and ancient ruins. To capture this resonance, the setting required a deliberate shift in atmospheric approach, where the interaction of light with sconces, elegant drapery, and luxurious fabrics became central to the visual narrative. The environment, working in seamless harmony with the clothing and accessories, creates a dreamlike atmosphere that feels entirely removed from everyday life. Ultimately, Callis and Chiuri extend a compelling invitation to the viewer: to step into a beautifully constructed reality that honors the profound emotional depths of human nature alongside the rich cinematic heritage of both Rome and FENDI.