We know that the first runway shows of new creative directors at a brand —and in life in general— often come with a somewhat tricky learning curve. For their second collection at the helm of Loewe, Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez continue outlining the direction of this new chapter for the Spanish house. And yes, their arrival signals a shift in direction, with a proposal centered on structure, volume, and an almost sculptural approach.

The collection begins with a clear idea: translating the brand’s historic craftsmanship into a contemporary aesthetic. Leather coats, parkas and bombers, rounded shoulders and exaggerated proportions transform each piece into a playful and irreverent exploration. Napa leather —the house’s emblematic material— took center stage not only in bags but across different colors and types of garments. In some looks, fluidity appears through feathers and materials that seem as though they were pulled straight from a marine vessel.

The color palette maintains a base of neutrals such as black, brown and beige, interrupted by vibrant accents of primary and secondary colors that bring a strong sense of visual joviality. Beneath these dramatic volumes, the inner layers remain restrained, reinforcing the idea that the focus lies in form and material.

The show itself was undoubtedly an ode to contemporary art through its choreography and staging. Presented at the Château de Vincennes during Paris Fashion Week, the runway incorporated monumental sculptures of marine creatures created by artist Cosima von Bonin, introducing a surreal and playful counterpoint to the minimalism of the garments.

With this collection, McCollough and Hernandez consolidate a vision for Loewe where experimentation distances itself from decorative excess, proposing fun itself as a manifesto.