Paris Fashion Week continues its steady march forward, and today, Saturday, October 4th, it was Nadège Vanhee and Hermès’ turn to captivate us with a display of expressive discretion—one of the defining traits that keeps this fashion house relevant despite the passing of time.

Fashion is in constant evolution, trends come and go, and naturally, so does what we see on the runway. Yet Hermès is one of those rare brands that knows exactly what it does and how it wants to do it. With discretion and elegance, its creative director followed an expected line—one that nevertheless doesn’t shy away from subtle adjustments to feel renewed. This season, for instance, we saw guest tones that disrupted its well-established earthy palette: strokes of red, purple, and blue (one of the brand’s standout hues this season) appeared among the 52 looks that gracefully carried us, metaphorically, from day to night, closing with black leather.

Speaking of leather, this material remains the unmistakable emblem of the house, and for Spring/Summer 2026, it arrives in lighter pieces that reinvent the way it can be worn. It appeared in bras, coats, shorts, thin straps, and even combined with silk—creating a pleasing visual (and likely tactile) contrast; a touch of femininity that balances the raw, almost Amazonian power of this collection.

At first glance, it might seem that Hermès continues to play it safe in an industry where innovation is often measured by risk-taking and bold experimentation. However, subtle details make it clear that Nadège knows how to adapt. In several pieces—most notably in racerback dresses—the designer embraced a more athletic and contemporary approach, opening up to freedom of movement and practicality in designs already defined by their sobriety. The classic and the sporty engage in dialogue here, maintaining the elegance and refinement expected of the luxury sector, yet introducing asymmetry, glimpses of the body, and a slight bohemian touch to the mix.

With a solid creative direction, Hermès continues to reinforce its own codes season after season, finding subtle ways to integrate change that its loyal followers will undoubtedly appreciate—working, as few others can, from a place of stability. While the winds of change may not blow strongly through this fashion house, they are certainly not foreign to it.