For Iris van Herpen, direct communication with movement and the environment is of vital importance in each of her collections. In the presentation of “Sympoiesis” at Autumn/Winter 2026 Haute Couture Week, she explores the oceanic environment, drawing inspiration from its movement, from its microorganisms to its titanic waves.

With the opening of a performance in collaboration with light artist Nick Verstand, Iris van Herpen explores the convergence between the sea's movement, its reflection with light, and the presence of its invertebrate organisms in juxtaposition with the human body, transforming into a bioluminescent creature, a ghost that flows beyond the human.

If you've ever been fascinated by how algae and bioluminescent organisms adapt and "glow" to the touch or in constant motion, Van Herpen has too. She attempts to explore this as only she can: with dresses that flow like silk and organza, as well as three-dimensional exoskeletons that form the base of each piece, supporting invisible structures that allow textiles to "swim" against the current and create resistance against the wind.

It might seem like just another collection from the designer; however, her thirteenth piece shows us a new way to save the world. Made from a synthetic protein originating from Spiber, it creates a fiber—produced by humans from fermented sugarcane—that is biodegradable and recyclable, capable of decomposing into nutrients and being reused as raw material for the generation of new proteins. This technology offers a new option for creating responsible fashion.

And let's not forget that each of these base garments was created with fiber from millions of living bioluminescent algae called Pyrocystis lunula. This is a process that simulates a culture that has been living "happily" for a year. These creatures need to rest and light up when facing intermittent danger. After its presentation, this living garment will continue to reproduce in optimal environments that promote research.

Beyond an expected presentation from Van Herpen, the true delight lies in the conceptualization: each look is a display of the brand's ability to transport an entire ecosystem to the runway. Everything revolves around constant movement, spiral shoes, and air currents.

In addition to showing us surprises, like a wedding dress straight out of a science fiction story, this collection gives us hope and makes us reflect on the impact of human societies on aquifers.