THE MUGLER-EST DAY IN HISTORY: FALL/WINTER 1995
Select Ishtar
Mugler, Thierry Mugler
You've got internet access and an endless curiosity about fashion, so you Google "haute couture." I bet you'll find more than three dresses from Mugler Fall/Winter 1995 among the images. Why am I so sure? The top supermodels (who are now legends) and the most iconic dresses, not just from the brand but from the entire history of Haute Couture, were showcased that day.
“Cirque d’Hiver” marked the brand's 20th anniversary. It was an hour-long event where the inspirations behind each dress were as diverse as the innovative materials and techniques used for the era. Mugler's irregular transparencies, giraffe prints, optical illusion silhouettes, and futuristic characters are still referenced and worn on red carpets (like in Cannes), at movie premieres, and in music videos.
300 looks were designed primarily to powerfully sculpt the female figure, adorn it with feathers, crystals of all sizes, and inject historical narrative. The “Birth of Venus” dress set the pace for the runway. This black velvet trumpet design, with pink satin details that open at the hip, references Botticelli's iconic painting. It was recently worn by Cardi B and is endlessly referenced in burlesque shows worldwide.
Beneath the “Angel” logo, under the coats, was the modern, dream-like silhouette of every executive (present, past, and future). An everyday superheroine whose trench coat is her cape (worn at shoulder level because it's much more chic that way). With each passing minute, it explored infinite possibilities with the inclusion of feathers, plush, corsetry, and vinyls, each one more daring and fierce than the last.
All the supermodels considered the foundation of today's runways walked in this celebration: Kate Moss, Naomi Campbell, Linda Evangelista, Shalom Harlow, Karen Mulder, Elle Macpherson, Claudia Schiffer, among others, united to immortalize Mugler. What is known as oversized today, in the nineties, was referred to as "exaggeration of proportions," all while respecting the balance of corsetry and the peek-a-boos that elevate each model's proportions.
“Cirque d’Hiver” is a testament to Gaultier, a visual treasure that remains present and will be replicated, redesigned, and reconceptualized for hundreds of years. A day when 300 looks, an hour of runway, and an identity in cerulean tones were preserved for posterity.