The anticipation surrounding the Alexander McQueen brand remains sleepwalking. The burden of carrying the past of a genius on the shoulders of Sarah Burton and Sean McGirr, in an era where performativity is seen as a distraction, has resulted in low engagement with past collections. However, in a nocturnal conversation and a dandy aesthetic, during Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2025-26, it returns with force and a delirious English narrative.

Sean McGirr presents his most confident proposal to date, the result of significant exposure on red carpets. This time, drawing from one of his favorite stories, Charles Dickens' "Night Walker," McQueen's creative director focuses on the internal dialogues of a Victorian insomniac dandy. The response includes ruffles on sleeves and finishes on silk and lace dresses, as well as many surprises.

The tailoring adheres strictly to Victorian codes: wide arms, broad shoulders, and a cinched waist (a trend we've seen in shows like Givenchy), and merges it with the playfulness of lace and hats designed by Philip Treacy, as well as the inclusion of volumes with feathers and tulle on shoulders and neck.

It's a collection worth remembering; each of the presented dresses features outstanding colors. While monochromatic tones abound, there are textures and finishes in peplums and braids. But there are also garments whose presence perfectly fits with Victorian tailoring, such as silk and velvet shirts.

There's also a richness in the prints of this collection. Olive and lilac colors combine perfectly with black and beige backgrounds. Crystal appliqués favor the sleepwalking narrative, painting a starry night that undoubtedly closes with a flourish with three innovative designs in silhouette, materials, construction, and styling straight from royalty.

It's a great awakening for McQueen, and I dare say that my nocturnal conversations, from now on, will be about its future in the couture sector and the excitement that awaits me to see what Sean McGirr has in store.