When we think of Schiaparelli, some believe there is no better way to kick off Autumn/Winter 2026 Haute Couture Week, while others ponder how setting the bar so high right from the start can intensify expectations for fashion creatives. Personally, I view it as an opportunity to remember just how unpredictable and surreal this industry can be, and exactly why I love fashion the way I do.

For “The Abyss,” the revolution was not only in form, but also in content. Daniel Roseberry stays true to his artisanal roots and expands toward latitudes that once seemed impermeable: the relationship between the assisted and the natural to create extensions of the body and a reality that submerges into the unknown. He utilized contemporary materials like latex to bind the body with its technology, fusing it with the classicism of Schiaparelli corsetry.

Using silicone, the team developed a satin capable of expanding and molding to the form. Through clay sculpting techniques and a traditional construction of boning and interlinings, these new bodies—hovering between the human and the alien—fitted the models as if it were their native skin, all complemented by a "jewelry" of prosthetics on the ears.

From the teasers shared on the brand's account, it became clear that, for Roseberry, this collection marks a turning point in his mastery and his references for the maison. In this chapter, he shows us his fear of the unknown; yet, despite experiencing it, he continues to create light so that the body can keep expressing its limits.

Thus, thinking about this collection goes far beyond tentacles, waves, molds, and prosthetics. There is still block construction, sculptural finishes, and an endless play between light and harsh textures. Ultimately, I believe this collection opens our eyes to a new way of experiencing haute couture, which must always remain a risk-taking endeavor that distances itself from the rigid and the commercial.