REFINING THE UNREFINABLE: ALESSANDRO MICHELE’S RESORT 2027

The Walk
REFINING THE UNREFINABLE: ALESSANDRO MICHELE’S RESORT 2027

Images by Liv Liberg.

Trying to polish Alessandro Michele's eccentricities to turn him into a minimalist is a pointless effort. Quirkiness isn't a detachable accessory in his universe; it’s stitched into every seam.

His proposal for Resort 2027 is a statement of intent that mixes Roman opulence with a street-smart attitude. Here are five key points to understand this new narrative, unpretentious and straight to the point.

1. The "Villain Teen" Attitude

The collection breathes a mischievous vibe, a direct nod to Michele's own inclination to be fashion's eternal enfant terrible. This attitude literally materializes in garments like embroidered baseball caps and leotards printed with the phrase "Villain Teen." More than just a pun on the brand's name, it's an open invitation to aesthetic transgression. It's about maintaining a playful, childlike, and above all, irreverent heart in the face of traditional haute couture seriousness.

2. Mixing the Devil with Holy Water

If there's one thing Michele masters, it's the art of improbable pairings. The central experiment this season is reconciling the untouchable grandeur of couture with the mundane demands of everyday life. The result is a fascinating visual clash: structured, classic-cut jackets over cotton fleece sweatshirts, denim skirts coexisting with ultra-delicate sheer blouses, or track pants paired with opulent sequined jackets and high-heeled suede boots.

3. The New Collegiate Uniform

Preppy tailoring and university codes are the backbone of the day looks, but passed through the house's eccentric filter. We see a display of collegiate striped shirts, cardigans, pleated skirts, and a lot of tartan. However, to break away from the predictable, Michele introduces pieces with heavy historical weight, such as ankle-length coats and shearling jackets with motifs that look like extravagant treasures inherited from another generation.

4. A Wardrobe Free of Dictates (Valentino 2.0)

The collection understands that modern life no longer works the way it did fifty years ago, when the day was fragmented by strict rituals and wardrobe changes. This is a vision for a new generation looking at the brand's aristocratic legacy with a carefree freshness. By eliminating strict rules, Michele proposes what he calls a "promiscuity of beautiful and comfortable things"—an absolute freedom where no one dresses following orders, but rather by combining textures and contexts according to their own instinct.

5. Scenic Contrasts and Open Doors

True to his love for cinematic narrative, the collection's images were shot in the frescoed interiors of Villa Gaia Gandini, a 15th-century palazzo in Milan. But far from wanting to project an elite locked in their castle, the message is one of inclusion. Pieces like the red padded jackets bear the phrase "You can come to my villa." It's a welcoming into the Valentino universe that masterfully contrasts with the level of artisanal detail the house continues to demand, from subtle twisted constructions on short dresses to explosions of tulle, fringes, beads, and sequins in the eveningwear.