STABILITY AMIDST THE SEA: FERRAGAMO RTW FALL/WINTER 2026-27

Kevin Gorian
STABILITY AMIDST THE SEA: FERRAGAMO RTW FALL/WINTER 2026-27

Images via MILAN FASHION WEEK Website

From my perspective, the turbulent creative ocean of fashion has begun to calm. The gigantic waves of change seem increasingly less frequent; while in certain houses, directors debut and finally settle in, there are others where the helmsman stands firm against the storm. Maximilian Davis is, in this analogy of seas and storms, a solid lighthouse built on a coastal islet: no matter what comes, he stands firm in his place, safely guiding the ideas and identity of Ferragamo.

Today, at Milan Fashion Week, Davis presented Ferragamo's Fall/Winter 2026-27 collection at the Triennale di Milano, a museum that was transformed, through heavy velvet curtains, into an intimate space, emulating a 1920s speakeasy. The comparison to the sea at the beginning of this article is not gratuitous; for this season at Ferragamo, Maximilian drew inspiration from the transatlantic voyages of the past century, finding in sailor uniforms the guiding thread for the narrative we can appreciate in his pieces.

And although the creative foundation of this collection dates back almost 100 years, the clothes could not look like they belonged to that era; the deconstruction of the garments is one of the most important aspects of this delivery. Coats, jackets, and parkas emulated asymmetrical sculptures bathed in dark colors. Deep blue, slate gray, black, chocolate brown, and purple were the tones that set the standard, framing some brighter details in bone, mustard yellow, orange, gold, or red ochre.

In Ferragamo's Fall/Winter 2026-27 season, Davis gifts us a series of pieces with structured lines, elegant and, at the same time, entertaining to observe; the creative director did not limit himself to traditional tailoring but went a step further, even in the smallest details. The buttoning, for example, went from being a simple utilitarian part of the clothing to complex systems that add a layer of beauty to dresses, skirts, and blazers, traversing them from side to side without being exaggerated.

Special mention must be made of the evening gowns; some glide over the skin and fall like molten gold, while the sensual negligées perfectly evoke the speakeasy atmosphere that contextualizes the presentation.

Despite the apparent rigidity in the silhouettes of certain looks, Ferragamo also presented sinuous curves, wrinkles, bulges, and pleats that endow the designs with movement, making a natural contrast with the accessories, which are much more sober and direct: the leather goods were precise and clean, luxurious without neglecting practicality.

Ferragamo's shoemaking heritage continues to step strong in this runway, where we saw décolletés and slingbacks that make a direct reference to the brand's archive; specifically, to pieces from 1954. In this same department, stiletto heels arrived to offer a counterbalance when styled with dense clothing.

Noble and well-proportioned, with details that catch the eye and the heart, but above all, stable and in line with the brand's DNA, such is Ferragamo's Fall/Winter 2026-27 collection, designed by Maximilian Davis.