In 2009, Galliano created a collection for his namesake brand in the Fall/Winter 2009 ready-to-wear season, one that remains on every mood board of stylists, designers, set directors, and producers across the fashion industry. The show stands as a remarkable showcase of the creative’s vision, and today, we want to revisit it.

A tunnel surrounding the models with projections of snow dust, lights, and lasers was enough to immerse the audience in the Balkan folklore of Russia—a culture Galliano honored through thirty looks that seemed straight out of a traditional fairytale.

Within the many symbolic layers studied in this collection, we find traditional Balkan textiles and patterns, arranged in voluminous silhouettes built with panniers and coat-skirts, all styled with metallic emblems and meticulously crafted headpieces designed not only to adorn, but also to “fly” with the winter winds.

This collection is rich in references and shows the power garments acquire when layered with metallic motifs, ornate details, and pom-pom boots. Despite the presence of color, the collection surrenders to shades of gray, black, and white—revealing the designer’s versatility and his perfect alliance with makeup artist Pat McGrath. She created a variation of the theatrical makeup from their 2003 show, reshaping the models’ faces to channel the ghostly, magical cold of Russia.

The models’ faces glowed like mother-of-pearl, their lids and creases hollowed into an abyss, highlighted with metallic tones to strike a perfect balance between fiction and reality, between creature and doll. Each face shimmered, but it wasn’t until the final eight looks that the true destiny of the collection was revealed.

A layer of translucent fabric—organza or silk perhaps—cut on the bias, adorned with metallic emblems and anatomical embellishments both beneath and above the dress, gave rise to a divine finale. It not only exalted the female form but also created an apotheosis worthy of Galliano.

This show is proof of why we search for his name whenever we feel short of inspiration. It reminds us that endless sources of inspiration may exist outside, but what truly matters is the eye through which you choose to adapt them to reality.