JUNYA WATANABE AT PARIS FASHION WEEK FALL/WINTER 2025-26: HIS RUNWAY, HIS RULES

Select Ishtar
JUNYA WATANABE AT PARIS FASHION WEEK FALL/WINTER 2025-26: HIS RUNWAY, HIS RULES

Junya Watanabe

Photos by Vogue Runway

To break the rules, you have to master them. I find impressive the way Junya Watanabe deconstructs flat clothing patterns to turn them into a game of three-dimensional shapes, like cubes and pyramids. At this Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2025-26, the Japanese designer was inspired by abstract architecture to show us his most expressionistic vision.

As if they were images generated by AI, Junya Watanabe created a collection that goes beyond imagination. Highlighting his eternal maximalism and his deconstructed vision, he integrated triangular prisms that surround the body in the form of jackets, as well as cubes, peaks, and figures patterned from the origami technique on bikers, ready to be worn only by the most daring in fashion.

But that was not all. Applauded for his perfectionist technique, he joined the trend of designers who experiment with hair, presenting a jacket created with wigs. Junya even used the reversible net to define the chest, waist, and forearm areas asymmetrically. This helps the model's figure look favored and defined, despite the accumulation of hair.

In addition to the eye-catching pieces, the inclusion of boots in the sleeves of a biker, as well as the structures created through a trench coat, left us perplexed at the designer's ability to include brutalist architecture in his designs. There is no piece that goes unnoticed and that does not make us question whether we are in reality or in a beautiful nightmare within a surrealist art gallery.

Watanabe shows us a new way of doing things. Approaching fashion in such an expressive way makes clothing convey everything that words cannot. Risk, daring, imagination, and overflowing creativity are some words that I would use to describe this ready-to-wear collection, ready to admire.