There's always a surprise factor with Tom Ford, an expectation that surrounds his collections in an anticlimactic way. At first, he presents us with complete harmony, accompanied by the music and the set design, and then proposes a complete change that, in some way, continues to correspond to the setting. In this presentation for Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2025-26, led by Haider Ackerman, a universe within David Bowie's music video "Life On Mars" is transported to the sensuality and elegance of the brand.

Ackerman's debut can be described as impeccable and chic with a fun touch. He proposes a game that has been forgotten in recent collections, focusing on vibrant colors and the juxtaposition of textiles. Leather and satin play in tailoring ensembles, focusing on the styling game with a focal point on skin peekaboos on the torso, as well as contrasting tones like gray and crimson.

The tailoring is impeccable; it's impossible not to think of David Bowie with the discordance generated by the neon tones in green and purple. And the icing on the cake were the asymmetrical dresses with leg slits (one of them worn by Alex Consani), as they represent the perfect example of the balance between sexy and fun, while still maintaining a moderate silhouette.

There is no blind spot in this collection: Haider Ackerman mastered the Tom Ford DNA in a masterful way, always showing the right amount of skin (even in the back necklines), and bringing to the world a new vision of menswear with fabrics overflowing with glitter (so that celebrities stop going unnoticed on the red carpet), but, of course, respecting the word of the day: balance.

In general terms, if we dream of an editorial retro-futurism with an edgy and fun touch, Tom Ford's new proposal will make us immensely happy. It represents a perfect example of how to absorb a brand's identity and inject a fresh touch, full of references, that respects the balance between sophistication and extravagance.